In The Footsteps of the Inca, Guest Post

Fit To Ride

 
As promised yesterday, a guest post from a traveler who has done Machu Picchu both virtually and IRL. Welcome fellow blogger Been There, Done That. Previous guest post [Safety Doesn’t Have to Be Ugly: Helmet-Hat Debut]

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott

~~~

Last winter, I knocked two items off my bucket list: the Panama Canal and Machu Picchu. The Panama Canal merits six or seven blogs all of its own; the construction, the weather, the location, the birds, the weather, and the respect generated for the men who actually built the canal. It was winter, the weather was 85 with 90% humidity, and one couldn’t help thinking of yellow fever, malaria, cholera, and no air conditioning at the time. But that’s for another time.

Machu Picchu was amazing. Back to Peru in a minute – bear with me. The summer before the trip, I learned that an individual whom I detest does the Peachtree 10K. Peachtree 10K is the largest 10K in the country, run through Atlanta on July 4th, and has been for 75 years. The individual in question is, shall we say, fitness-challenged, and, in a moment of kindergarten bravado, I declared that if she can do it, so can I. No sooner said than done, I started training, found a training buddy and started entering 5K race-walks. This made my dance partner happy (staying in shape and fitting into my ballgowns). Buddy and I logged 5 total 5Ks. Then the lockdown. (Just another minute – bear with me.) [ed. For ballgown image, see BTDT: Dancing with horses, dancing with guys]

Buddy and I were looking for motivation, and Katherine pointed me at The Conqueror website. This is a virtual fitness challenge where one can earn medals for completing specified courses. The site offers satellite imaging so that you can actually see where on earth you really are. And you can track your progress across the landscape. Sounded interesting, especially since one of the challenges offered was the Inca Trails Virtual Marathon. (See, told you we’d get back to Peru.)

Buddy and I signed up for the Inca Trails marathon with another partner, thinking it would be fun. Following the trail with real images of the landscape brought back memories. When I hit the real-life Inca Trail, it wasn’t on foot. We rode the 26 miles to the trail-head (which is what the young and insane hike) in a luxurious train with a five-star lunch! The scenery is jungle, even though it’s at 12,000 plus feet. Green and vines and orchids and birds of every possible description. We crossed the actual Inca Trail (the Peruvian equivalent of the Appalachian Trail here, only shorter but much more vertical) on several occasions, watching the young and insane struggling along.

At the trailhead, you are dropped at the entrance to the actual site, and from there, it’s on foot. They have made several very intelligent changes to the routes the Inca actually built (the trail is still the one constructed in the 1300s and is beautifully preserved), the most impressive being that the trail is one-way only. For those of us who are of, shall we say, mature years, this is a definite plus, since we don’t have to deal with young bucks bulldozing down while we are struggling up.

The trail itself is a series of switchbacks; three miles of switchbacks with 2500 feet vertical gain – and you’re starting at significant altitude. Our guide was fabulous; she’d find something of interest to point out at the end of every switchback, discreetly waiting until we had stopped panting before taking us to the next switchback and finding something else to wonder at.

The climb was worth it. The view from the top is exactly like the posters. And it is spectacular. The Inca were master builders; the walls still stand in spite of earthquake and weather, and you cannot get a knife blade between the unmortared stones. The air is incredibly clean and it’s amazingly quiet. We were in the last afternoon group – apparently the major tourist rushes are for sunrise.

Everything is lush and green; again, even with the altitude, you are barely below the equator in tropical environments. Would have been really satisfying just to sit down and meditate on the builders; the site was abandoned in the 1500s and no-one really knows why. There are no major artifacts; everyone who left took their stuff with them. But it is spectacular.

The trick, I found, was going down. The Inca didn’t go in for hand-rails, and the stepping stones can be interesting. Fortunately, there were a couple of muscular young men eager to assist a “grandma” who wasn’t quite sure of her footing, and I made it down intact. There is a lovely little café at the trailhead which serves delicious coffee and pastry while one is waiting for one’s transportation, and you can even get your passport stamped with a Machu Picchu visa! The café, incidentally, shows up on the satellite imaging for the virtual marathon if you look carefully. The other images are true to the landscape and are a really fun way to remember a breath-taking (in more ways than one) trip.

Biking A Steep And Stony Path

Fit To Ride

 
Today. My experience with The Conqueror Virtual Challenges: The Inca Trail Virtual Marathon
Tomorrow. Guest post from a traveler who has done Machu Picchu both virtually and IRL.

~~~

For exercise and vicarious amusement, I “biked” the 26.2 miles of the Inca Trail. This was my first experience with virtual travel. I would go for a bike ride around my neighborhood. Very isolated, lots of social distance. When I got home, I would log in to the webpage and report my mileage. The site would then tell me where I was on a map. I could convert to streetview for a look at the trail.

Along the way, they awarded icons for finishing a percentage of the route. At the end. I got a digital finisher’s certificate and a hefty metal medal on a neck ribbon.

Day By Day
Started, April 5, 2020.
Finished, April 9, 2020.
Mileage by day. 10-8-5-8
Daily record. [Biking Virtually, Inca Trail]

Pet Peeve
People who say Machu Picchu was “discovered” in 1911 by Henry Bingham. People knew about it all along. Just not the right people. Mffph. The popularization of Machu Piccu, sure. But let’s use the right words.

“Bingham, of course, was not the first person to discover Machu Picchu. Peruvian farmers in the region had long known about and visited the mountaintop ruins. ”

Thank you.

“But he was likely the first to make a photographic record of the site. ”

Okay, legit claim.

National Geographic: These Stunning Pictures Revealed Machu Picchu to the World. Got this glimpse, then would’ve had to sign up to read more.

Awareness of Outside World
GVI: How to ethically hike Machu Picchu. I can’t speak to the backstory of the website owner beyond what they say about themselves. At least they raise good questions. Minimal surfing will turn up abundant commentary on the various issues: worker rights, animal welfare, sustainability, etc.

From The Bookshelf – Internet
Most blog posts about the Inca Trail were along the lines of Steep! Magical! I’m a travel blogger! Aren’t I clever! This one is was more approachable: Practical Wanderlust, Hiking Machu Picchu: Failure on The Inca Trail

My Google fu could not drag up an official Inca Trail site, a la US National Parks. Everything turned out to be a tour company. Please point me toward what I missed.

From The Bookshelf – Books
The Falling Woman
by Pat Murphy (Tor 1986)
Came up in Google search. Got all excited before I realized it was about Mexico rather than Peru. Read it anyway. Also recommend her book There and Back Again, a SF retelling of The Hobbit.

Warning. Not sure how to give alerts without spoilers, but I’ll give it a go. There are uncomfortable parts to the book. They are hinted at in the beginning. If you have triggers, proceed with caution. You are good to go with the Hobbit book.

Previous Posts
Intro [Virtual Bling]
Widget announcement post [Come Away With Me, Virtually]
Team invitation post [Ride Away With Me, Virtually] Join us!
Other virtual trips [Biking Virtually, New Zealand], [Biking Virtually, Route 66]

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott

3000 Dots

Blogging About Blogging

 
Leading off with an awareness of the outside world segment.

CGMadeit: Why I can’t “just knit”, The story of a black knitter during civil unrest. “The color of my skin still makes folks pause. I still have to remind people that ‘We Knit Too!’ ” Imagine people looking startled whenever you walk into a room of strangers who share your interest. Even if the strangers turn out to be lovely, charming people, seeing that moment of puzzlement has to be exhausting.

The New York Times: When 511 Epidemiologists Expect to Fly, Hug and Do 18 Other Everyday Activities Again. By Margot Sanger-Katz, Claire Cain Miller and Quoctrung Bui. June 8, 2020. Usually behind a paywall. I believe virus articles are publicly accessible. What it says on the tin. When can we see a doctor, travel by airplane, hug a friend. Answers: This summer, 3-12 months, 1 yr+.
~~~
 

 

Blog post number 3,000 today. One dot for every post.

Back in the 7th grade, I acquired – bought? awarded? gifted by the book fairy? history does not record – a book called One Million. It had 200 pages with 5,000 dots each. I remember leafing through it and thinking, ‘Wow, a million is a lot.’ A facile thought, but that was the point of the book. To bring home the idea that a million is a lot. I’m fairly certain it was an earlier edition of this book, One Million by Hendrik Hertzberg (Abrams 2009).

That’s all I got. No deep thoughts. Just lots of dots, er, posts.

post #1 [Begin] December 22, 2011.

Post #1000 [I Made It!] October 14, 2014.

Post #2000 [Letter Art: MM] July 9, 2017.

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott

Rodney Makes His Weekly Cameo On His Own Blog

Training Journal

If you’re riding a horse, you’ve already won.

 

 
One of my first photos with my new phone was this ear shot for this post. I have my priorities.

Progress Report
Rodney and I can walk, trot, and canter at home with minimal flashes of anxiety on the part of horse or rider. It would be easier in a level, groomed ring with a fence around it. That’s not what we have.

We trot over poles reliably. Cantering over poles remains a work in progress. Rodney expects heavy rein contact asking him for a dressage canter. I expect him canter around on a loose rein and sort out his own feet. He’s never been expected or allowed to adjust himself. I’m banking that he will prefer this way of going once he figures it out. He is currently in the skill-acquisition phase. This is interesting enough on the flat. It gets complicated when we add an obstacle. Have you ever been on a horse who bit for the big one … over a pole?

Action Items
I am working on staying centered, both side to side and back to front, as well as having a clear idea of the pace I want. If I am all over the place, Rodney is all over the place.

In return, Rodney is adapting to his rider. The upside of being an amateur’s horse is lots of attention. The downside of being an amateur’s horse is moments of infelicitous riding. He’s learning not to sweat the occasional botched transition.

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott

Mood On Monday, Other Voices, A Dash of Hollandaise In The Cupcake

Thoughts

 
Last week, I gave my reasons for not adding my hand-wringing to the general conversation, “When you bite into a cupcake, you don’t want Hollandaise sauce.” [Mood On Monday, Venturing Out]

Then, The Errant Moon reminded me that silence is not always a virtue. “Not saying something feels like complicity.” I don’t want that either. The Errant Moon: Untitled

I am not good at arguing my outrage. I have plenty, I’m just not quick on my feet in the face of conflict. That is one reason I stick to what I’m good at. [Speaking Out]

So, I found others who express themselves in difficult situations better than I do.

‘Fraidy Cat Eventing talks about herself as “Third generation Baltimore City right here.” The interesting part of one of her stories, to me, is that I have been in that traffic stop. Long, shaggy-dog story that ends with me being stopped by 4 cop cars. At the officer’s request, I stepped out of the car. I was teen-age, white, female, scrawny, and wearing what was obviously a food service uniform. I was as harmless looking as one can get and still be granted a driver’s license. The result was the officer getting heckled by his fellows, “Think you can handle this one?” I’ve told that story many times. My tagline is, “I got a $50 ticket for embarrassing a police officer.” It never occurred to me that the story might end any other way. FCE’s best friend felt differently. ‘Fraidy Cat Eventing: to Baltimore, with love

So now what? Viva Carlos is an African-American horse blogger. In a earlier post that I can’t dig up, she said that for many of her friends she is their one black friend. (If I am channeling this from a parallel universe, my apologies.) From this, I am making the assumption that she is used to the gormless, well-intentioned ignorance that surrounds those of us who lead insulated lives. “Even though I shouldn’t have to do this work explaining things to you – I also understand what it feels like to be confronted with a monolithic amount of work before you and feel a cascade of anxiety to the point it forces you to inaction.” She lists things to do, articles to read, and places to donate. Viva Carlos: So You Want To Be An Ally….

In case you aren’t overwhelmed yet, a reminder that old problems don’t go away when new problems erupt.

While we are on the subject of outrage, Contact has a well-researched defense of Safe Sport. You wouldn’t think a program to protect children from sexual predators would need defending, but here we are. Contact: Let’s chat about SafeSport shall we. As a follow up, Contact: … and another thing! *hiccups*

In closing, a classic from 2012. Whatever: Straight White Male: The Lowest Difficulty Setting There Is. What is instructive about this one is the hysteric counter-reaction the post provoked from folks who could not grasp “that ‘lowest difficulty’ is not the same as ‘easy’.” Whatever: The Lowest Difficulty Setting in Action. To go back to Viva Carlos, “Just because you are white doesn’t mean you didn’t struggle, no one is negating the fact that life is hard, but it means the color of your skin didn’t factor into why you struggled.” Ally

Ducks behind flame-retardant wall.

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott

The Merhorse, An Exercise In Blue And Green, With Free Coloring PDFs

Celebrating Art

 

 
I Dream Horses: A Coloring Book for Everyone
by Linda Dalziel
(CreateSpace 2016)

One of three free coloring pages offered via the book’s Facebook page @idreamhorses. Credit for the assist to BB.

Process Notes. For this one, I picked the colors by eye. The result looks as if randomly I upended the blue/green section of the digital crayon box unto the page. Proving why I should stay with picking colors by number [Color Factory].

Happy drawing!

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott

Show Today, Yet I Languish At Home, Is It The End Of An Era?

Adventures in Saddle Seat

Enjoyed the ride

 


 

Show today.

I am not there.


[2013 photo, Report]

Gasp.

Sob.

Sniffle.


[2014 photo, Report]

I have unfailingly attended the Mid-South Spring Premiere Horse Show every year since 2013. Usually with Sam [Progression, 2016, 2017, 2018]. Last year with Milton [Two Sides].

Have I wupped my last trot? [Why Wup?]


[2015 photo, Report]

I chose not to compete as my life has been bereft of Saddlebreds since March. [Center of Gravity]

Have I asked for my last outside rein/outside leg canter transition?


[2015]

Even before the virus upended our world, I was drifting away from the saddle seat arena. Last year I competed in only a small handful of ASB shows, two with guest Thoroughbreds. [Looking Back, Horses of 2019]

Have I finished my last pass?


[2016]

At the awards banquet for last year, I was deep in the pastels for divisions I usually win. [Changing Of The Guard]

Have I pulled into my last line up?


[2016]

I skipped Winter Tournament to work with our horses [Sitting Out]. Weekends will continue to be valuable. Schedule conflicts will ever be road blocks in the path to dual-career stardom. [This Is Why You Can’t Do It All]

Have I won my last huge, gorgeous, fluffy ASB ribbon? [An Attempt To Freeze Time]


[2017]

Academy is for education. It’s where you learn to show before moving up to the big leagues. It is unsporting of me to hang around the division for mumble years like a party guest who refuses to leave.

Have I cross-diagonalled my last victory pass?


[2017]

Maybe in the far distant future of next week or next month, I could resume appropriately socially-distant saddle seat lessons, even if I’m not showing.

Maybe in the impossibly, relativistically distant future of a few years from now – when Rodney has retired from his late-blooming yet stellar show career – I could find an amenable Saddlebred who would like to be my horse for the season and finally show suit.

Alas, such thoughts are soap bubbles that disappear as I examine them.

Today, I am imprisoned in the tyranny of the now.

Thinking of what was.


[2018]

Meanwhile.

The show must go on.

Without me.


[2018]

Spotlight fades to black.

Melodramatic soliloquy ends.

Stay safe. Stay sane.
Katherine Walcott